Every day ferries run back and forth across the River Tagus to several different ports. So yesterday we decided to try one. We boarded - using our metro cards - at the terminal next to the Praca do Commercio (one of three terminals on the river) and took the ferry to Barreiro. The ride was interesting - about 30 minutes - and the views lovely. As far as Barreiro is concerned, it removes any illusions that all Portuguese towns are charming. Other than a nice, if small, park and two tile-fronted buildings the city is totally lacking in charm.
We had coffee and caught the next ferry back to Lisbon. The view of Lisbon from the water was worth the trip.
Friday, February 24, 2017
Thursday, February 23, 2017
And more wanderings in an ancient city
On Tuesday we took off on foot again for parts unknown. We had lunch in a little very local restaurant a block in from the Praca do Commercio, then walked up to the Se Cathedral,, then further up toward the castle.
We passed a small palace at the bottom of a rather steep alley which is today a small hotel. Hotels - new, old and under construction, are everywhere. As we headed down we found the Fado Museum. Local museums are free on the last Sunday of the month, so this may be on the agenda this coming Sunday. From there we walked along the river between the massive construction and the small businesses and restaurants that are currently being hurt by the construction. That's where we were reminded what an ancient city this is. Among the big equipment and cranes was an area where workers were digging by hand with small trowels - an archaeological dig.
It seems that all of Lisbon is being rehabbed due to its new-found popularity among visitors from the rest of the world. This is February - the "slow" season - and yet the line for Tram 28 is long every day, and the trams are crammed. This is just going to get worse as the "in season" approaches, beginning next month. After dinner we stopped at a pastalaria on the Rossio square and asked the waiter about the large old building across the way with a roof that seems ready to collapse. He says it has been acquired and will be converted to ANOTHER hotel.
Yesterday we explored some more - up hill, of course - and spent some lovely time in the warm sun overlooking the river. Last night at dinner, in a beautiful restaurant with good food but not so good service, we met a couple from DC who were on the last night of their first visit to Portugal and love it. They are even considering moving here. We share that sentiment.
So, ho hum, another sunny day is dawning. The tai-chi guy was going through his daily routine in th square below. John is anxious to use the car we have leased and not needed, so perhaps we will go further afield today.
We passed a small palace at the bottom of a rather steep alley which is today a small hotel. Hotels - new, old and under construction, are everywhere. As we headed down we found the Fado Museum. Local museums are free on the last Sunday of the month, so this may be on the agenda this coming Sunday. From there we walked along the river between the massive construction and the small businesses and restaurants that are currently being hurt by the construction. That's where we were reminded what an ancient city this is. Among the big equipment and cranes was an area where workers were digging by hand with small trowels - an archaeological dig.
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| Archaeological dig site. On left wrapping small shards in plastic. Note old wall - probably Roman. |
It seems that all of Lisbon is being rehabbed due to its new-found popularity among visitors from the rest of the world. This is February - the "slow" season - and yet the line for Tram 28 is long every day, and the trams are crammed. This is just going to get worse as the "in season" approaches, beginning next month. After dinner we stopped at a pastalaria on the Rossio square and asked the waiter about the large old building across the way with a roof that seems ready to collapse. He says it has been acquired and will be converted to ANOTHER hotel.
Yesterday we explored some more - up hill, of course - and spent some lovely time in the warm sun overlooking the river. Last night at dinner, in a beautiful restaurant with good food but not so good service, we met a couple from DC who were on the last night of their first visit to Portugal and love it. They are even considering moving here. We share that sentiment.
So, ho hum, another sunny day is dawning. The tai-chi guy was going through his daily routine in th square below. John is anxious to use the car we have leased and not needed, so perhaps we will go further afield today.
Monday, February 20, 2017
Wanderings
Because we "live" in Portugal now, not every day is a sightseeing or adventure day. Sometimes we don't stray far from "home" except to go out for lunch or dinner. Here are a few highlights from the past week:
Tuesday, February 14, 2017
As we meandered back to Lisbon from Porto we stopped in Leiria for a light lunch and a visit to the Monastery of Batalha (Battle). Begun in 1385 to celebrate the Portuguese victory over the Castilians, it took over 100 years to complete and, even then some of the chapels were never completed. We wondered if the feelings about the battle were still the same when the monastery was completed as they had been when it was begun.
"It took over a century to build, starting in 1386 and ending circa 1517, spanning the reign of seven kings. It took the efforts of fifteen architects (Mestre das Obras da Batalha), but for seven of them the title was no more than an honorary title bestowed on them. The construction required an enormous effort, using extraordinary resources of men and material. New techniques and artistic styles, hitherto unknown in Portugal, were deployed."
Wednesday, February 15, 2017 - Another day, another funicular
Today was a go wandering day, so we decided to walk up Avenida do Liberdade. On the way we noticed the Acensor do Lavra - the oldest and steepest (a 25% grade) funicular of the three.
This one took us to a park (Jardim do Torel) with another spectacular view of the city, and near another park (Campo Mártires da Pátria) with the strangest monument we have ever seen. The monument is to a doctor - Jose Tomas de Sousa Martins - who was renowned for his work with the poor. Since his death a secular cult has arisen around him in which he is thanked for "miraculous" cures. At the base of the monument are hundreds of "tomb stones", flowers and messages of thanks. We saw a woman and man praying - seemingly to the statue - and placing flowers at its base.
The nearby Campo is delightful, filled with ducks, chickens and the ubiquitous pigeons. I was almost dive bombed by pigeons when a person nearby pulled out some bread. The chickens were very entertaining as the roosters positioned themselves to show off for the few hens.
Thursday, February 16 2017
Today began with the sad news that my uncle Lingan Deitrick had passed away the day before. He was my mother's twin brother and 91 years old. He had a dissected aorta which impacted him on Monday. He was able to decide for himself that he would not have the required - rather extensive - surgery and died peacefully within 8 hours of returning home from the hospital. He lived a full and wonderful life, but I am sad that this special connection to my mother is now gone.
This was another warm, sunny day so we wandered down to the river where we enjoyed the music of a small group and the sights of boat traffic on the river.
Lisbon is such a musical city. Everywhere we go we see and hear many talented musicians singing and/or playing for tips. There are so many good ones we could go broke rewarding them.
One of the strangest stores in Lisbon sells nothing but canned sardines in a variety of specially designed cans. You can buy cans that feature your birth year, or just about anything else you can think of.
Friday, February 17, 2017
Today was our 38th anniversary so we celebrated with a special dinner at As Velhas. Guadalupe, the owner, again served us a "non-menu" item. Last week it was cornmeal-coated fried fish fillet accompanied by a rice with turnip greens dish. Reminded me of my southern childhood food. This week it was chicken with spaghetti served in a wonderful light sauce of olive oil, garlic, tomatoes, and coriander. Seated next to us was a couple from the Channel Islands on their first visit to Lisbon. They love the city and plan to return. It made for interesting conversation.
We ended the meal with a toast of Portuguese "champagne" shared with the staff - our Lisbon family.
Saturday and Sunday, February 18 - 19
Quiet weekend. Saturday, as our neighborhood is the China Town of Lisbon, we browsed in the notions shops nearby, went to the grocery store and ate in. Sunday was another quiet day. We walked up to the Chiado for lunch in an antique restaurant and visited the world's oldest bookstore - Bertrands - located in a blue-tiled covered building. It did not disappoint. Then we walked to Restaurant Maria Catita, an Azorean restaurant we have visited before and will visit again. We had a reservation for 7:00 - early by Lisbon standards. When we arrived the restaurant was empty. By 7:40 there was not a seat to be had and the staff was turning people away.
Did I mention that we LOVE living in Lisbon.
Tuesday, February 14, 2017
As we meandered back to Lisbon from Porto we stopped in Leiria for a light lunch and a visit to the Monastery of Batalha (Battle). Begun in 1385 to celebrate the Portuguese victory over the Castilians, it took over 100 years to complete and, even then some of the chapels were never completed. We wondered if the feelings about the battle were still the same when the monastery was completed as they had been when it was begun.
"It took over a century to build, starting in 1386 and ending circa 1517, spanning the reign of seven kings. It took the efforts of fifteen architects (Mestre das Obras da Batalha), but for seven of them the title was no more than an honorary title bestowed on them. The construction required an enormous effort, using extraordinary resources of men and material. New techniques and artistic styles, hitherto unknown in Portugal, were deployed."
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| The Monastery of Batalha is massive. |
Today was a go wandering day, so we decided to walk up Avenida do Liberdade. On the way we noticed the Acensor do Lavra - the oldest and steepest (a 25% grade) funicular of the three.
This one took us to a park (Jardim do Torel) with another spectacular view of the city, and near another park (Campo Mártires da Pátria) with the strangest monument we have ever seen. The monument is to a doctor - Jose Tomas de Sousa Martins - who was renowned for his work with the poor. Since his death a secular cult has arisen around him in which he is thanked for "miraculous" cures. At the base of the monument are hundreds of "tomb stones", flowers and messages of thanks. We saw a woman and man praying - seemingly to the statue - and placing flowers at its base.
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| View from Jardim do Torel |
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| Monument to Dr. Jose Tomas Sousa de Martins |
The nearby Campo is delightful, filled with ducks, chickens and the ubiquitous pigeons. I was almost dive bombed by pigeons when a person nearby pulled out some bread. The chickens were very entertaining as the roosters positioned themselves to show off for the few hens.
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| The fowl in Campo Matires da Patria |
Today began with the sad news that my uncle Lingan Deitrick had passed away the day before. He was my mother's twin brother and 91 years old. He had a dissected aorta which impacted him on Monday. He was able to decide for himself that he would not have the required - rather extensive - surgery and died peacefully within 8 hours of returning home from the hospital. He lived a full and wonderful life, but I am sad that this special connection to my mother is now gone.
This was another warm, sunny day so we wandered down to the river where we enjoyed the music of a small group and the sights of boat traffic on the river.
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| Views of the River Tagus |
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| A Lisbon street musician greets a young fan. |
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| Mundo Fantastico da Sardinha Portuguesa (the fantastic world of Portuguese sardines) |
Today was our 38th anniversary so we celebrated with a special dinner at As Velhas. Guadalupe, the owner, again served us a "non-menu" item. Last week it was cornmeal-coated fried fish fillet accompanied by a rice with turnip greens dish. Reminded me of my southern childhood food. This week it was chicken with spaghetti served in a wonderful light sauce of olive oil, garlic, tomatoes, and coriander. Seated next to us was a couple from the Channel Islands on their first visit to Lisbon. They love the city and plan to return. It made for interesting conversation.
We ended the meal with a toast of Portuguese "champagne" shared with the staff - our Lisbon family.
Saturday and Sunday, February 18 - 19
Quiet weekend. Saturday, as our neighborhood is the China Town of Lisbon, we browsed in the notions shops nearby, went to the grocery store and ate in. Sunday was another quiet day. We walked up to the Chiado for lunch in an antique restaurant and visited the world's oldest bookstore - Bertrands - located in a blue-tiled covered building. It did not disappoint. Then we walked to Restaurant Maria Catita, an Azorean restaurant we have visited before and will visit again. We had a reservation for 7:00 - early by Lisbon standards. When we arrived the restaurant was empty. By 7:40 there was not a seat to be had and the staff was turning people away.
Did I mention that we LOVE living in Lisbon.
Friday, February 17, 2017
Happy birthday in Porto
February 13, 2017
Ah yes, officially 71 years old. Woke up this morning in the wonderful Yeatman Hotel. Located across the Douro River from Porto, this wonderful hotel provides an amazing view of the beautiful city from every room. A wine hotel, each room is "sponsored" by a regional winery and the wine list offers more than 100 brands. The restaurant boasts 2 Michelin stars. We are told that Anthony Bourdain is staying here with his crew filming a new show, but we never ran into him.
We spent the day exploring Porto on foot. After a walk down a very steep hill paved in cobble-stones behind our hotel, we reached the river along which are the various port visiting centers - Taylor, Sandeman, Offley, Grahams, etc. We then walked across the amazing iron bridge that links the two cities, and along the river past restaurants and souvenir shops. Porto is all straight up-hill with few level places. The city is beautiful, offering lovely views in all directions. And so we walked, up and up and up. We have visited Porto several times, including this past July with our grandchildren, but this was the first time on our own - free to just wander and take in the city and its vibe. We stopped into the exposition center - Mercado Ferreira Borges, the last tribute to the iron period in Porto. It had a wonderful photo exhibit by a number of very talented photographers.
Continuing upward we found Livraria Lello, one of the oldest bookstores in Portugal and considered one of the finest and most beautiful in the world. When JK Rowling taught English at nearby University of Porto she is said to have frequented this bookstore, which is rumored to have inspired her books. And it is indeed inspirational. Now it costs 4 Euros per person just to get in the door. So we paid and really enjoyed the beautiful architecture, only slightly marred by the hordes of other visitors. If you buy a book, your entry fee is deducted from the price.
From Lello we walked across a relatively flat square to admire the azulejos on the side of a beautiful church - the Igreja do Carmo.
As mentioned earlier, Porto is a beautiful city with beautiful vistas. Look up any side street and you will see lovely building facades with balconies, flowers, and azulejos.
The weather forecast had been for rain, but we endured only a couple of short showers and an unexpected amount of sunshine. All together we walked over five miles before grabbing a taxi back to the hotel where we enjoyed a birthday celebration dinner in the Michelin-starred restaurant. What a wonderful day!.
Ah yes, officially 71 years old. Woke up this morning in the wonderful Yeatman Hotel. Located across the Douro River from Porto, this wonderful hotel provides an amazing view of the beautiful city from every room. A wine hotel, each room is "sponsored" by a regional winery and the wine list offers more than 100 brands. The restaurant boasts 2 Michelin stars. We are told that Anthony Bourdain is staying here with his crew filming a new show, but we never ran into him.
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| View of Porto from our room |
Continuing upward we found Livraria Lello, one of the oldest bookstores in Portugal and considered one of the finest and most beautiful in the world. When JK Rowling taught English at nearby University of Porto she is said to have frequented this bookstore, which is rumored to have inspired her books. And it is indeed inspirational. Now it costs 4 Euros per person just to get in the door. So we paid and really enjoyed the beautiful architecture, only slightly marred by the hordes of other visitors. If you buy a book, your entry fee is deducted from the price.
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| Inside the Lavraria Lello |
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| Igreja do Carmo |
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| Lovely little side street in Porto |
The weather forecast had been for rain, but we endured only a couple of short showers and an unexpected amount of sunshine. All together we walked over five miles before grabbing a taxi back to the hotel where we enjoyed a birthday celebration dinner in the Michelin-starred restaurant. What a wonderful day!.
Thursday, February 16, 2017
Journey to Porto
February 12, 2017
We're leaving town for a few days in Porto. Finally using the car we've had since the 1st of this month. It's a 3.5 hour trip via highway. However, since we're in no hurry we have programmed the GPS for "Ecological" -- an alternative to "fastest" and "most direct."
Our first stop is Alcobaca, a lovely little in-land town with a famous monastery. It's about time for lunch on a Sunday afternoon so when we saw a sign that looked promisig, found a little out-of-the-way restaurant in an alley. Restaurante Antoio Padeiro, located in the basement of the building, is a treasure trove of delightfully displayed and/or utilized yard and estate sale finds. The napkin rings are curved forks and spoons. Even the appetizer tray is a slab of marble on forks and spoons used as handles and base. See photo:
After lunch we visited the monastery - a massive structure built between 1178 and 1223. It is the burial place of a number of Portuguese kings and other notables, including Dom Pedro and his lover Inez. Interesting story, Dom Pedro's father had Inez assassinated. When Pedro became king he had her remains moved to Alcobaca where she is interred and where he declared her queen. He is interred there as well. The interior of the church is "stark" by Portuguese standards in keeping with the tastes of St. Barnard to whom the monastery is dedicated. It is no less imposing, however, due to its sheer size.
When we left Alcobaca our "ecological" GPS selection took us through country roads, a national forest, and to the beautiful beaches near Nazare - known world-wide for surfing. Although the day was sunny with temps in the 50s, no hardy soles were in the water.
When we realized our "ecological" path would get us to our hotel in Porto late, we changed to "fastest" and arrived at the Yeatman by 6:00 after a rather convoluted trip through Vila Nova Gaia - the city across the Douro river from Porto.
After a delightful dinner in one of the hotel's dining rooms, we enjoyed a drink and the view of Porto and retired after a delightful day.
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We're leaving town for a few days in Porto. Finally using the car we've had since the 1st of this month. It's a 3.5 hour trip via highway. However, since we're in no hurry we have programmed the GPS for "Ecological" -- an alternative to "fastest" and "most direct."
Our first stop is Alcobaca, a lovely little in-land town with a famous monastery. It's about time for lunch on a Sunday afternoon so when we saw a sign that looked promisig, found a little out-of-the-way restaurant in an alley. Restaurante Antoio Padeiro, located in the basement of the building, is a treasure trove of delightfully displayed and/or utilized yard and estate sale finds. The napkin rings are curved forks and spoons. Even the appetizer tray is a slab of marble on forks and spoons used as handles and base. See photo:
Note the handles for this cute little tray.
After lunch we visited the monastery - a massive structure built between 1178 and 1223. It is the burial place of a number of Portuguese kings and other notables, including Dom Pedro and his lover Inez. Interesting story, Dom Pedro's father had Inez assassinated. When Pedro became king he had her remains moved to Alcobaca where she is interred and where he declared her queen. He is interred there as well. The interior of the church is "stark" by Portuguese standards in keeping with the tastes of St. Barnard to whom the monastery is dedicated. It is no less imposing, however, due to its sheer size.
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| The Monastery of Alcobaca |
When we realized our "ecological" path would get us to our hotel in Porto late, we changed to "fastest" and arrived at the Yeatman by 6:00 after a rather convoluted trip through Vila Nova Gaia - the city across the Douro river from Porto.
After a delightful dinner in one of the hotel's dining rooms, we enjoyed a drink and the view of Porto and retired after a delightful day.
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Saturday, February 11, 2017
Viva Teatro!
Saturday, February 11, 2017
Last night we went to the theater. Like most everything in Lisbon, it was a short walk from our apartment.
We saw Amalia: A Musical, the life and career of Amalia - Portugal's legendary and beloved Fado star. It was wonderful! The staging was clever, the voices spectacular. Three Amalias - as a child (amazing voice in a very young girl), as a young woman and as the fully mature idol she became. It was really a Fado opera. A board above the stage gave key parts of the story line in English, Spanish and French. And, of course, John could translate some of the dialogue.
At the end the producer came on stage and made an appeal for the audience to "spread the word" as the local television and news outlets seem only to care for football. "Viva teatro!" were his parting words. This play has been performed in a number of countries and been seen by "millions".
Theater here starts at 9:30 pm, so we had time for a leisurely dinner at As Velhas. It was after midnight when we departed. It was a wonderful experience.
Today we get out of the city. We plan to drive to Coimbra for an overnight, then on to the Yeatman in Porto for a couple of nights. We are finally using the car we picked up on Febrary 1 that has been sitting in the garage since. We got this car via a short term lease that keeps the cost down. However, at the rate we are using it the actually cost may be very high per kilometer! ;-)
Last night we went to the theater. Like most everything in Lisbon, it was a short walk from our apartment.
We saw Amalia: A Musical, the life and career of Amalia - Portugal's legendary and beloved Fado star. It was wonderful! The staging was clever, the voices spectacular. Three Amalias - as a child (amazing voice in a very young girl), as a young woman and as the fully mature idol she became. It was really a Fado opera. A board above the stage gave key parts of the story line in English, Spanish and French. And, of course, John could translate some of the dialogue.
At the end the producer came on stage and made an appeal for the audience to "spread the word" as the local television and news outlets seem only to care for football. "Viva teatro!" were his parting words. This play has been performed in a number of countries and been seen by "millions".
Theater here starts at 9:30 pm, so we had time for a leisurely dinner at As Velhas. It was after midnight when we departed. It was a wonderful experience.
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| Waiting for the show to begin. Lovely theater. |
Thursday, February 9, 2017
LIsbon wanderings
Wednesday, February 8, 2017
After an early lunch at the new pastalaria down the street (Nata Fino, Desde 2017 - according to the sign), we took off in search of the best hair salon in Lisbon per Yelp. It took a bit of wandering before we realized it was in the Chiado. So we entered the H & M store on one level in Baixa and took the escalators to the 4th floor where we exited at the Chiado. These are the little energy saving things one learns by wandering!
When we got to &SoWhat (the salon) almost at the top of many more hills without benefit of escalators, it looked great and everyone spoke excellent English. I made an appointment for 5:00 this afternoon, and we set off to kill a couple of hours. We wandered back down the hill via a different street, noting new restaurants and a Municipal Theater en route. At the bottom we walked toward the Praca do Commercio past this beautiful building.
From the Praca we walked along the river, people watching and enjoying the scenery.
After a coffee stop where we sat outside, enjoyed the sunshine and watched the comings and goings of the various boats that ferry people to Almada, the town on the other side of the river, we walked back up to the Chiado and my appointment. I now have VERY short hair and will probably not need another cut until we get home.
We stopped for another coffee at Bernards - presumably one of Lisbon's oldest pastalarias. Here we saw some of the grand dames that are prevalent in these types of places all over Portugal.
After an early light dinner - pizza - at Da Vinci's, we returned home and called it a night. All in all we had walked over 5 miles! What a great way to spend a sunny day in Lisbon.
After an early lunch at the new pastalaria down the street (Nata Fino, Desde 2017 - according to the sign), we took off in search of the best hair salon in Lisbon per Yelp. It took a bit of wandering before we realized it was in the Chiado. So we entered the H & M store on one level in Baixa and took the escalators to the 4th floor where we exited at the Chiado. These are the little energy saving things one learns by wandering!
When we got to &SoWhat (the salon) almost at the top of many more hills without benefit of escalators, it looked great and everyone spoke excellent English. I made an appointment for 5:00 this afternoon, and we set off to kill a couple of hours. We wandered back down the hill via a different street, noting new restaurants and a Municipal Theater en route. At the bottom we walked toward the Praca do Commercio past this beautiful building.
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| This beautiful building is just one reason we love wandering in Lisbon. |
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| An enterprising "artist" has turned a part of the rock riverside into "sculpture". |
We stopped for another coffee at Bernards - presumably one of Lisbon's oldest pastalarias. Here we saw some of the grand dames that are prevalent in these types of places all over Portugal.
After an early light dinner - pizza - at Da Vinci's, we returned home and called it a night. All in all we had walked over 5 miles! What a great way to spend a sunny day in Lisbon.
Wednesday, February 8, 2017
Principe Real
February 6, 2017
Today we decided to explore another Lisbon neighborhood - Principe Real. This trendy area sits atop the Bairro Alto area. As you might guess from the "alto" it's at the top of another of Lisbon's seven hills.
We walked to the Funicular Gloria on Avenida da Liberdade. This is one of three funiculars in Lisbon, all built in the late 1800s to assist residents (and others) traverse the very steep hills. Gloria was opened in 1885 and has been a designated national monument since 2002. It took us to Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, a lovely park that overlooks the city with spectacular views of the castle and the river. A large statue honors the founder of Diario de Noticias - one of the largest and most prominent newspapers in Portugal.
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| At the top of the hill. Funicular Gloria heads back down. There are actually two cars, one on its way up while the other returns to the bottom. |
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| Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara |
We stopped, instead, for a cup of tea and a snack at a delightful little cafe in one of the several parks in the neighborhood.
Instead of taking the funicular back down the hill, we walked through Bairro Alto down to the Chiado neighborhood. On the way we passed my favorite chocolate shop, the Chocolateria do Equador. We had accidentally found this little jewel when we were here last April. Of course we went in and bought chocolate. ;-)
Then we continued down the hill and back to the apartment. Great day!
Monday, February 6, 2017
A lovely Sunday
Sunday, February 5, 2017
Sunny & Mild and two new restaurants
We seem to be eating our way around Lisbon. Today was sunny and mild after several days of rainy weather. So we decided to visit the Museu Nacional De Arte Antiga (National Museum of Antique Art). Before entering the museum we had lunch at Le Chat - a lovely little restaurant overlooking the docks and the River Tagus just outside the museum entrance. Much to our pleasant surprise, the food was excellent. I say surprise because so many times places like this with such a view and location offer at best mediocre food. But not Le Chat! We recommend it highly.
We also recommend this beautiful museum. We had visited it once before with Christy & Wayne LaGue, specifically to see the Hieronymus Bosch triptych, The Temptations of St. Anthony. Since that original visit the museum has been expanded -- beautifully I might add. Because of the expansion, many of the pieces in the collection that had been in storage can now be permanently displayed. The museum has also used crowd funding to raise the money needed to acquire new paintings.
We enjoyed a quick coffee at a small bakery just up the hill from the museum with delicious scones. The owner, Eduardo, and his staff were friendly (as are most people in Portugal) and fun. We sorta promised to adopt a young woman who works there after she graduates from university in the UK. That's in three years. We'll see. Then we rode Tram 15 back home to rest before heading out for dinner at another new, to us, restaurant. Maria Catita is tucked in on a block just behind the Praca do Commercio and near the Hotel Turim. The surroundings are cozy and the cuisine is Azorean. We have learned to share entrees because the portions are so big. Tonight we shared a marinated pork and beans dish. Delicious.
BTW, the Portuguese phrase for a shared entree is "fazer a vaquinha" which translates into "to make a little cow." No one knows how that phrase was chosen to represent a shared dish.
We love living in a city! Just as we had hoped, we simply step outside and anything we might need or want is within a short walk or metro or tram ride.
Sunny & Mild and two new restaurants
We seem to be eating our way around Lisbon. Today was sunny and mild after several days of rainy weather. So we decided to visit the Museu Nacional De Arte Antiga (National Museum of Antique Art). Before entering the museum we had lunch at Le Chat - a lovely little restaurant overlooking the docks and the River Tagus just outside the museum entrance. Much to our pleasant surprise, the food was excellent. I say surprise because so many times places like this with such a view and location offer at best mediocre food. But not Le Chat! We recommend it highly.
We also recommend this beautiful museum. We had visited it once before with Christy & Wayne LaGue, specifically to see the Hieronymus Bosch triptych, The Temptations of St. Anthony. Since that original visit the museum has been expanded -- beautifully I might add. Because of the expansion, many of the pieces in the collection that had been in storage can now be permanently displayed. The museum has also used crowd funding to raise the money needed to acquire new paintings.
We enjoyed a quick coffee at a small bakery just up the hill from the museum with delicious scones. The owner, Eduardo, and his staff were friendly (as are most people in Portugal) and fun. We sorta promised to adopt a young woman who works there after she graduates from university in the UK. That's in three years. We'll see. Then we rode Tram 15 back home to rest before heading out for dinner at another new, to us, restaurant. Maria Catita is tucked in on a block just behind the Praca do Commercio and near the Hotel Turim. The surroundings are cozy and the cuisine is Azorean. We have learned to share entrees because the portions are so big. Tonight we shared a marinated pork and beans dish. Delicious.
BTW, the Portuguese phrase for a shared entree is "fazer a vaquinha" which translates into "to make a little cow." No one knows how that phrase was chosen to represent a shared dish.
We love living in a city! Just as we had hoped, we simply step outside and anything we might need or want is within a short walk or metro or tram ride.
Friday, February 3, 2017
Up hill both ways
February 2, 2017
Remember the tale parents are supposed to have told children who complain about hardship - "When I was a kid I walked five miles to school every day - up-hill both ways."? Well today that's how I felt.
We took off up a narrow street to explore Mouraria, our neighborhood and one of the oldest sections of Lisbon where Fado is sung, streets are narrow and stairs seem to go on forever. And we just continued going up the winding narrow streets dotted with stairways, also going up.
We walked past the Igreja de Sao Cristovao (Church of St. Christopher), built in the 1700s and now under renovation. The interior was impressive, although too dark to really enjoy the art.
Then we continued up to the plazas that overlook the river Taugus with amazing views of the bridge - the perfect place to stop for a coffee and sweet and enjoy the view. Then, onward and upward to the gates of the castle. Now, at this point one would think that we had reached the top and could now go down. But no!
After a short down-hill section we were again going up towards the Graca Convent that sits atop another hill adjacent to the castle.
"Graça Convent is one of the oldest convents in Lisbon. According the legend, in 1362 the statue of Our Lady of Grace appeared in the network of a fisherman. The convent part is nowadays used by the army and is not open for visits, but the church is still in use.
By the time we returned home we had traversed over three miles - up-hill. Gotta love this city! And we do.
Remember the tale parents are supposed to have told children who complain about hardship - "When I was a kid I walked five miles to school every day - up-hill both ways."? Well today that's how I felt.
We took off up a narrow street to explore Mouraria, our neighborhood and one of the oldest sections of Lisbon where Fado is sung, streets are narrow and stairs seem to go on forever. And we just continued going up the winding narrow streets dotted with stairways, also going up.
We walked past the Igreja de Sao Cristovao (Church of St. Christopher), built in the 1700s and now under renovation. The interior was impressive, although too dark to really enjoy the art.
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| Exterior of the Church of St. Christopher |
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| View from the top - almost |
Then we continued up to the plazas that overlook the river Taugus with amazing views of the bridge - the perfect place to stop for a coffee and sweet and enjoy the view. Then, onward and upward to the gates of the castle. Now, at this point one would think that we had reached the top and could now go down. But no!
After a short down-hill section we were again going up towards the Graca Convent that sits atop another hill adjacent to the castle.
"Graça Convent is one of the oldest convents in Lisbon. According the legend, in 1362 the statue of Our Lady of Grace appeared in the network of a fisherman. The convent part is nowadays used by the army and is not open for visits, but the church is still in use.
Most of the original Graça Church collapsed in the earthquake of 1755, so what you see today is an 18th century baroque monument. Inside it is partly decorated in 16th and 17th century tiles, while outside is Sophia de Mello Belvedere (famous Portuguese poet ) which is one of the city's most popular viewpoints."
We can see both of these edifices from our apartment but never realized how close and accessible (if you don't mind walking up-hill for two miles) they are. By the time we returned home we had traversed over three miles - up-hill. Gotta love this city! And we do.
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